Category: Fly of the Month

Tying instructions and materials needed to tie a specific fly. Often the fly that is going to be tied in the upcoming month’s fly tying class.

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Hot Butt

by Elaine Cook – fly tying chairman

This fly represents an adult caddis with an egg sack. The female caddis returns to the water in an interesting up-and-down dance, depositing her eggs and sometimes becoming trapped in the surface film and very available to the trout.
HOOK: TMC 100 sizes 14–20.  Crimp barb.
THREAD:  8/0 black.  Attach 1/3 back on shank.
EGG SACK: Spooled Antron yarn, hot pink.  Place strand on top of shank with end above hanging thread. Fasten to top of shank with touching thread wraps back to above barb.  Cut short so length equals 1/4 hook shank.
HACKEL: Grizzly, barbs equal to 1/2 hook gap.  Prepare “crew cut“ at end of stem. Fasten crew cut to top of shank, tip to rear, dull side of feather toward you. Touching thread wraps back to tie in.
BODY: Peacock herl.  Select three strands. Break off fragile tips. Lay on top of shank with tips at tie in and butts to rear.  Tie in place back to rear of shank. Form a dubbing loop.  Advance thread to tie in. Using dubbing tool make a chenille. Wrap chenille forward with touching wraps to tie in. Tie off, cut excess. Spiral hackle forward in about 3 to 4 wraps.  Tie off, cut excess. Cut barbs short on top of body.
WING: Deer hair (medium thick shafts).  Closely cut a clump of hair from hide the size of a wooden match stick. Remove under fur. Stack tips. Lay on top of shank, tips at rear of egg sack, butts forward. Make one loose thread wrap around hair only – not shank.  Make second wrap around both hair and shank.  Snug in place by pulling bobbin downward.  Make 3–6 more tight thread wraps on top of one another. Raise hair butts upward and cut short at an angle so that butts extend 1/4 hook shank length beyond thread wraps. Half hitch knots under cut butts and behind hook eye, cut thread. Apply small amount of glue.

Posted on April 2nd, 2025

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Snow Cone Chironomid

by Elaine Cook – fly tying chairman

Chirononids are also known as midges. There are hundreds of species throughout the world. They are the major source of food for trout in the winter. This size and coloring should work well at the fish out in mammoth while fishing Crowley lake. To fish Pyramid Lake you would use the larger sizes. This pattern can be used to mimic most of them by changing color and size. Some materials are used for the larger hooks, which will be explained at the bottom of these directions.
HOOK: TMC 3761, Daiichi 1560 (these are a 1x long nymph hook).   Crimp barb.
BEAD: 2mm pearl white bead.  Feed small opening onto hook. Position behind eye.
THREAD: Black 8/0.  Attach behind eye. Touching wraps to mid shank. Touching wraps back to bead.
RIB: Small Ultra Wire, red and silver or just one or the other.  Using your thumbnail or hard object, pull wire over edge to remove any kinks or bends. Put wire tip or tips into bead on top of shank. Tie wire in place with touching wraps back to above barb.
BODY: Flashabou black. Cut end to a point. Return thread with touching wraps up to bead.  Flashabou forward with overlapping wraps up to bead. Tie off, cut excess. Spiral wrap wire forward with seven turns up to bead. First two wraps close together and gradually getting further apart. Tie off. Cut excess with old scissors very close to bead. Make several wraps to cover ends of cut wire. Whip finish. Cut thread. Apply 2 coats of glue or Sally Hanson’s Hard As Nails to body.

HOOKS                 BEADS

6–8.                       3.8 mm
10–12                    2.8 mm.
12–14                    2.3 mm.
For hooks size 6 to 12 use Flex Scrub wrap for body, and pull tightly as you wrap. For sizes 12 to 14 wrap thread back and forth two or three times before starting rib.

Posted on April 2nd, 2025

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March Brown Spotlight

by Elaine Cook – fly tying chairman

There are around 200 species of mayflies in the western USA alone. This one has brown coloring. This pattern can be tied to represent many species by changing color and size. This fly is best tied by experienced tiers.
HOOK: TMC 2487.  Sizes 14–22. Crimp barb.
THREAD: Brown 12/0 or 14/0 is best.  Attach 1/3 back on shank.
POST: Closed cell foam cylinders 1/16” thick for the larger hooks. Thinner for the small hooks.  Lay on top of shank with end extending a little forward of hook eye. Make 4 snug wraps, one on top of the last. Make two wraps on shank in front of post. Pull foam to the rear and cut very close to thread wraps. Snugly tie down cut end of foam. Make several thread wraps in front of post to stand it upright.  Make several thread wraps around base of post to make base for hackle.
TAIL: Brownish gold spooled Antron.  Using bodkin separate 6 to 8 fibers from strand. Lay on top of shank, butted up against post and extended to the rear. Touching thread wraps back to a little beyond rear of shank. Cut tail fibers equal to 1/2 body length.
BODY: Super fine or X-dub dubbing, brown color.  Dub a very thin tapered body forward to base of post. Reposition hook so that post faces upright.
HACKLE:  Grizzly dyed golden brown. Barbs equal to 2x hook gap.  Cut about six barbs short on each side of butt end of stem “crew cut”. With dark side facing you tie crew cut in at base of post then raise hackle upright, make 2 to 3 wraps around hackle stem and base of post to keep it upright.
THORAX: same material as body.  Dub a small thorax around base of post. Position thread hanging on your side in front of post.
HACKLE CONTINUED: Wrap hackle around base of post 2 to 3 times. Hold hackle down with left hand, bring thread up in front of hackle stem to shank level in front of stem. Wrap thread around base of post between hackle and thorax 3 times. Make 3 half hitches behind eye. Cut excess hackle.
HEAD: Thread. Using a bodkin, make enough half hitches behind eye to form a small thread head. Complete fly by cutting foam post a little above hackle to form a spotlight.
NOTE: sometimes a post of a different color is easier to see. Use a Sharpie to color it pink or orange or chartreuse if desired.

Posted on March 27th, 2025

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Antron Caddis

by Elaine Cook – fly tying chairman

This is a high floater that never wants to sink. Use a floating line and floatant. There are over 300 species of caddis in the western USA so vary your fly colors and sizes. Good colors would be gray, brown, or dark gold.
HOOK: TMC 100  size 16-20   Crimp barb.
THREAD: 8/0 or smaller, pick a color from above. Attach 1/3 back on shank. Wrap to rear of shank.
BODY: Super fine dubbing, same color. Wrap generous body forward to tie in.
WINGS: Spooned Antron, same color.  Cut two pieces 1 1/2 inches long. Fold in half. Place on top of shank with loop extending forward over front of eye. Attached to top of shank with three wrap then lift loop and make three wraps right in front of tie in, then make three more wraps over original three wraps. Divide wing and half and figure 8 wraps to hold wings out to the side with tips slightly up. One or two wraps around base of wing will help hold them in place. Cut wings to length of hook. Wrap thread forward binding to one eye length behind eye.
HACKLE: Grizzly dyed color as above, barbs equal to 1 1/2 hook gap.  Stroke barbs against grain at base at butt end.. Cut 4 to 5 barbs short on each side of stem. Lay on top of shank with shiny side up. Tie in place and wrap thread forward to one eye length behind eye. Wrap hackle forward in 3 to 4  wraps,  tie off, cut excess.
HEAD: Extended wing material.   Advance thread to behind hook eye. Make 3-4 Half hitched knots. Cut thread. Hold Antron loop up and cut short equal to two eye lengths.
LEGS: Cut hackle  tips off at the bottom to the level of hook point.

Posted on March 9th, 2025

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Orange Stick

by Elaine Cook – fly tying chairman

Here’s a fly that is super easy to tie. It’s also super effective in the surf.
1. HOOK: TMC 5263  size 6.  Crimp barb.
2. THREAD: Red 6/0.  Attach behind eye. Touching wraps to 1/3 back on shank. Then forward to two eye lengths behind eye.
3. EYES: Silver bead chain, small or medium size, Loctite glue or similar. Cut bead chain into 2 ball sections. Attach to top of shank with multiple crisscross wraps, then circular wraps around underside of balls, pull tight, then repeat several times. Apply glue. Position thread above hook point.
4. TAIL: Orange spooled Antron.  Using a 3 inch piece, cut in half and stack on top of one another. Tie in center of bundle with two thread wraps. Fold forward strands to rear. Tie in place back to rear of shank. Cut tail length equal to 1/2 hook shank.
5. BODY: Orange medium sized chenille.  Remove fibers from 1/4 inch of center of threads. Tie threads to top of shank. Reposition thread to in front of bead chain eyes. Wrap chenille forward with close touching wraps up to bead chain eyes.
USING SNUG WRAPS: Wrap chenille forward between top of eyes, then down on far side of shank, then under shank to near side, then back over top between eyes, then down on far side of shank, then forward under shank between eyes. Tie off behind hook eye. Cut thread. Apply glue to tie off threads.

Posted on March 9th, 2025

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Mosquito

by Elaine Cook -fly tying chairman

The mosquito pattern has been around for decades and is a good old standby. Use for trout, apply floatant, and fish dead drift. The traditional mosquito uses the natural grizzly feather, which is black and white. Don’t hesitate to use grizzly that has been dyed brown, cream, or dun.
1. HOOK: TMC 100 size 12 to 18    Crimp barb.
2. THREAD: Black 6/0 for larger flies, 8/0 for smaller.   Attach 1/3 back on shank.
3. WINGS: Grizzly neck     Select two feathers from side that have rounded tips and width of feather just a little below the tip equals 2/3 width of the shank. Note location on stem that is the equal to hook length. Stroke all barbs from that point back on stem. Position feathers with tips forward, separation of barbs mid shank, bend of feathers going away from each other. Tie in place, cut excess. NOTE: WINGS SHOULD BE 1/3 BACK ON SHANK.  Several wraps of thread in front of wings to hold them upright. One wrap of thread between wings too slightly separate. Cut any excess barbs, extending forward over eye of hook.
4. TAIL: Grizzly Hackle Neck. Feathers from the side of the neck have stiff barbs that are straight. Select one that has long barbs. Stroke barbs against the grain to line up the tips. Cut 10 to 12 from stem. Lay on hook shank with tips extending hook shank length beyond shank. Tie in place with touching wraps, up to wings. Cut excess.
5. BODY: Moose mane.  Cut one dark and one light strand from stem. Lay strands on top of hook shank with tips just behind wings and butts to rear. Secure to top of shank with touching thread wraps up to wings. Wrap both strands forward at the same time forming a barber pole effect. Cut excess.
6. HACKLE: Grizzly.  Select feather with barbs equal to 1/2  length of hook gap. Cut several barbs short on but end of stem. Tie in crew cut behind wings. Wrap thread forward to one eye length behind eye. Wrap hackle around hook  shank, twice behind wings and twice in front of wings. Cut excess.
7. HEAD: Wrap thread head. Whip finish. Cut thread.

Posted on March 9th, 2025

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RS 2

by Elaine Cook – fly tying chairman

The RS 2 is a small delicate pattern that simulates a mayfly or midge insect. It is most commonly used trailing behind a small dry fly as a dropper. It will sink about 1 to 4 inches below the surface. Set up if you see a rise anywhere near the dry fly. This fly works best in a spring creek or tailwater fishery. This is one more you can add to your box if you are going to the Green River next month. This is a very simple fly to tie. The directions are written in detail.
HOOK: TMC 101 sizes 16–20.  Crimp barb.
THREAD: Gray 8/0, 12/0 for a small hooks. Attached 1/3 back on shank. Thread wraps to 2/3 back on shank.
TAIL: Muskrat guard hairs   Hold tips of approximately 5–8 hairs. Pull fuzzy under fur toward hide. Slip scissors down shaft of guard hairs, then cut near hide. Lay on top of shank, tips extending about hook length beyond shank. Make five touching wraps of thread toward rear of shank. Slowly and carefully using tips of scissors, cut out all but two of the thicker longer guard hairs near shank. If they are uneven, pull the shorter to the rear using pliers, then slowly pull guard hair forward so that the tales equals shank length. Make five more touching thread wraps forward. Raise butt ends and cut near shank. Tie down butt stubs.
BODY: Muskrat under fur.   Cut small chunk from very close to hide. Remove any guard hairs. Make dubbing by pulling fibers apart and putting back together many times forming a loose homogeneous fuzzball. Apply very small amount of dubbing to thread. Wrap thread to rear of shank. Dub a narrow tapered body forward to one eye length behind eye. Trim stray hairs close to body.
WING: CDC gray.    Select two similar sized feathers, one for size 20 hooks. Lay on top of one another with curves matching. Holding onto tips, stroke, other barbs in opposite direction. Lay on top of shank with tips extending to rear of hook. Tie and place with 4 touching wraps backward. Holding tips upward, pull stem forward until tips are mid shank. DO THIS SLOWLY. Make four more thread wraps to secure. Cut stem close to thread wraps. NOTE: Save feather for more flies.
THORAX AND HEAD: Muskrat under fur.  Apply very small amount of dubbing to thread. Make one or two wraps backward onto wing so it ends up 2/5 back on shank. Dub forward in one or two wraps. Remove any extra dubbing. Whip finish forming head. Cut thread. Cut short any stray hair fibers.

Posted on February 16th, 2025

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Copper Top

by Elaine Cook - Fly Tying Chairman

You may have noticed that midges are being featured the last few months.  Those of you going to the Green River fishout certainly need to have a variety with you.  One of the guides at the Green River has recommended this one in size 16 for the last week of April.  Needless to say these flies can be used wherever you fish for trout.

1. Hook:  Heavy skid hook. TMC 2457, Dai-Riki 235. Sizes 16-22.  Crimp barb .
2. Bead:  Copper.  Refer to chart in December newsletter for choosing appropriate size bead for the different sizes of hooks.  Feed bead onto hook up to eye, small opening first.
3. Thread:  Black, 8/0 for size 16 and 18 hooks, 12/0 for a smaller hooks.  Attached behind bead.  Touching wraps halfway around bend.  Touching wraps back to bead.
4. Rib:  Copper wire.  Small for size 16 and 18 hooks.  Extra fine for smaller.  Insert tip into back of bead.  Tie to top of shank with touching wraps back almost to rear of body.  Touching wraps back to bead.
5. Body:  Thread as above.  Create a tapered body with thread wraps.  See picture.  Then spiral rib forward in about seven wraps up to bead.  Holding wire upright, makes several thread wraps behind and several in front.  Twist wire to cut.  Hold bead in place with a collar of thread wraps.  Whip finish, cut thread.  Apply glue to body and color.

Posted on November 11th, 2024

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Quigley Cripple BWO

by Elaine Cook – Fly Tying Chairman

The Quiggly represents an emerging mayfly that is dressed in an unusual manner to make the rear end of the tail hang down in the water and the thorax and wing out of the water. Apply saliva to the body and tail, then floatant to the wing and hackle. During a hatch, fish tend to be more eager to take an Emerger than a Dun because they are not ready to fly off.
HOOK: TMC 100, sizes 14 16 18.
THREAD: 8/0 or 12/0 (Preferable for the smaller sized hooks).
TAIL and BODY: gray Marabou (fluffy).
THORAX: dark olive dubbing
WING: deer hair with narrow fibers
HACKLE: grizzly.
1. Crimp barb.
2. Attach thread behind eye, wrap to rear of shank with touching wraps.
3. Select 3 to 5 barbs of marabou, cut from stem, tie in with tips extending hook shank length to rear. Tie down with 2 thread wraps forward, then fold marabou backward and make two thread wraps backward.
4. Make dubbing loop with marabou. Wrap thread forward to 1/3 back on shank.
5. Gently twist dubbing loop into rope. Wrap forward with touching wraps up to hanging thread.
6. Dub a round thorax that surrounds a section of the shank starting 1/4 back and ending 1/2 back..
7. Select small bundle of deer hair. Clean out under fur, stack tips. Lay on top of shank, tips out over eye that measure shank length in front of thorax.
8. Tie in by making first wrap around only hair fibers and second wrap around both fibers and hook shank. Make several snug wraps on top of one another. Make one wrap around base of wing to bundle it, then one more wrap around shank. Cut butt ends so that they just cover thorax.
9. Reposition hook with eye tipped upward.
10. Select hackle with barbs one and a half hook gap. Cut off fuzzy end. Cut 5 to 6 barbs short along base of stem on each side forming a “crew cut“. Holding feather tip to rear, dark shiny side towards you, crew cut both behind I and wing. Tie in crew cut behind wing with two wraps, then two wraps between eye and wing. Position thread between wing and cut butts. Make 3 to 5 hackle wraps in the same place around deer hair and shank. Tie off cut access.
11. Have hitch behind eye.
12. If tail longer than hook shank length, pinch marabou to cut (don’t use scissors).

Posted on December 29th, 2024

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Barbed Wire Midge Pupa

by Elaine Cook - Fly Tying Chairman

Midges be the major source of food for trout in the winter and early spring but available all year. Midges tend to be smaller in moving water and larger in still water. This particular pattern is best used in moving water and particularly good for tail waters and spring creeks. The pupa follow the larval stage and imitates the midge ascending to the surface to hatch out. That’s when it’s the most vulnerable to trout and the stage that they are most likely to eat.

HOOK: Heavy scud hook, such as TMC 2457 or Dai-Riki 235     Sizes 18-22   Crimp barb.
THREAD: Black
Ultra thread 70 denier, for attaching gills
UNI-Thread 12/0, for body of size 18 hooks. 14/0 for body of size 20 and 22.
Attach 1/3 back on shank with few wraps.
GILLS: White Z-lon or similar. Separate fibers. Tie small bundle to top of shank up to hook eye. Cut rear fibers at an angle. Wrap down to shank creating a taper. Tie off thread cut access.
BEAD: Black glass. Size to match hook. See picture.   Feed onto hook, small opening first, up to hook eye.
BODY:  See above.  Attached behind bead. Touching wraps to halfway around bend of hook. Touching wraps forward to bead.
RIB: Silver wire.
Small for size 18 hooks.
Extra fine for size 20 and 22 hooks.
Feed tip into rear of bead. Attach to top of shank with touching wraps, back to just short of body. Touching  thread wraps forward to bead. Spiral wrap wire forward in about seven wraps up to bead. make one extra wire wrap behind bead. Cut wire with old scissors. Wrap thread collar behind bead covering final wire wraps. Tie off cut excess. Apply glue to body and collar. Cut gills to appropriate length, see picture.

Posted on October 26th, 2024

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Wits Foam Emerger – Pearl

by Elaine Cook - Fly Tying Chairman

The primary food source for trout in the winter time are midges. This pattern is an emerger that will float in the surface film due to the foam post. The body will hang down into the water. The directions are written for a size 16 hook. Adjust materials, accordingly.

HOOK: Daiichi 1130, TMC 100 or similar lightweight wire scud hook. Crimp barb.
THREAD: White 6/0.  Attach 2 eye lengths behind eye. Wrap to halfway around bend of hook with touching wraps. Then back to tie in. Repeat once or twice depending on size of hook. (see photo)
BODY: Pearl Krystal Flash.   Tie to top of shank with touching thread wraps  back to two thread wraps from end of prior thread wraps. Then thread wraps back to tie. Cut excess. Wrap flash forward with touching or slightly overlapping wraps. Tie off, cut excess. Apply glue to entire body. Allowed to dry. Then cut white thread.
THREAD: Black 6/0. Attach 2 eye lengths  behind eye.
POST: 2mm White Foam.   Cut very narrow strip. Then point at one end. Attach pointed end behind eye with remainder of strip forward. Fold  back and tie down leaving loop (see photo). Cut excess. Tie down butt end. Apply small amount of glue. Allow to dry.
THORAX: Peacock Herl.  Attach behind post. Make dubbing loop. Twist to form chenille. Wrap generous thorax. Tie off, cut access. Half hitch under post behind eye to tie off. Cut thread. Small amount of glue to tie off.
NOTE: Moisten body before fishing to aid its sinking into water.

Posted on October 15th, 2024

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Black Smut Midge

by Fly tying chairman – Elaine Cook.

Midges are the main source of food for trout throughout the winter and even though they are very small, they are usually abundant. If you’re going to a spring creek or tailwater, you will want to have some in either this pattern or others. This is an adult midge, not easy to see on the water, so best to trail it off of a fly that you can see. You will be needing to use thin tippet such as 6X.
HOOK: TMC 101 size 20. This is a straight eye hook. Crimp barb.
THREAD: 12/0 or 14/0 black    Attached behind eye. Touching wraps to rear of shank.
BODY: beaver, black. Wrap a non-tapered body forward to one eye length behind eye.  Make one thread wrap backward onto body and let thread hang.
WINGS: 2 dark dun hackle tips from size 16 neck feathers. Position one on the far side of body with dark side outward and tips hook shank length. Tie in place. Repeat with other hackle tip on near side.
HACKLE: Grizzly saddle, hackle size 20.  Prepare butt end with “crew cut”. Tie in “crew cut” with light side facing you.  Several wraps of hackle in place.  Tie off cut access.
HEAD: Whip finish forming head. Cut thread.

Posted on September 18th, 2024

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Hornberg

by Elaine Cook - Fly Tying Chairman

This great stillwater trout pattern simulates a bait fish and in the past at Crowley Lake mimics the Sacramento perch, which thrives there. It’s the yellow in the body that shows through the mallard flank feather that gives it the same coloring as the fish. Use a sinking line and alter the strip to find what works.

HOOK: TMC 5263. Sizes 6 – 12.   Crimp barb.

THREAD: Black 6/0 or 8/0. Attached one quarterback on shank.

BODY: Flat silver tinsel. Tie in at slightly backward angle. Wrap to rear of shank with overlapping wraps, then forward in the same manner. Tie off, cut excess, tie down tag.

UNDER WING: Yellow marabou. Select feather with barbs equal to 1 1/2  hook shank long. NOTE: it’s easier to handle if it’s wet. Cut barbs from stem (a 1/2 inch to 1 inch section. Snugly tie, butt ends to top of shank. Tie down butt ends. Position thread 1/3 back on shank.

WING: Gray Maillard feathers. Select two mirror image feathers. At least 1 1/2  to 1 3/4  length of shank. Prepare feathers by:
1. Hold against hook so tips are at end of marabou.
2. Starting at hook eye, firmly stroke, barbs forward.
3. Cut stem at that point. Place one feather on far side and one on near side,  dark sides facing outward. Cut stem right behind hook eye. Tie and place up to hook eye then 1/3 back on shank.

EYE: Imitation jungle cock feathers. Size medium (30 mm) for  hook sizes 6–8, size small for hooks sizes 10–12. Remove two eyes from supporting paper. Position one on each side of body with stub beyond hook eye. See photo for positioning. Tie in place with snug wraps, cut excess tie down stubs.

HACKLE: Grizzly saddle or neck. Select feather, barbs equal to 1 1/2 hook gap. Prepare feather:
1. Cut off fuzzy end.
2. Stroke bars firmly toward cut end.
3. Cut short 5 to 6 barbs on each side of stem at butt end (butch hair cut). With shiny side facing you, tie in butch with tips of feather at end of marabou. Wrap thread forward to one hook eyed length behind hook eye. Wrap hackle forward, close wraps, forming a thick collar. (NOTE: use a second feather if needed.) Tie off, cut excess. Tie a thread head. Whip finish, cut thread. Apply glue to head.

Posted on July 22nd, 2024

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Easy Foam Hopper

by Elaine Cook - Fly Tying Chairman

As summer wears on hoppers are getting bigger and become available to trout as the grass dries and the only green left, that the hoppers eat, is near water. Needless to say they are a big source of protein which makes them particularly attractive to trout and bass. There is a good demonstration on the web for tying this fly, but it’s without any sound. Watching the video and reading my helpful hints below I believe you will be able to successfully tie the fly. Look it up by name: “Tying an easy foam hopper”

HOOK: TMC 5263 size 10.

THREAD: 6/0 color to match body (tan, yellow, green, brown, and even blue).

BODY: 2mm foam.  Cut strip slightly wider than hook gap. Position rounded end hook shank beyond rear of hook. Poke both holes using a bodkin instead of scissors. Apply glue to the thread wraps on the shank, as well as the foam on each side of those thread wraps. After folding foam backward to form the head, squeeze to prevent gap between layers.

OVER WING: EP fibers or spooled Antron work well. My  picture is made with EP fibers.

INDICATOR: White 2 mm foam. Cut strip slightly narrower than body.

LEGS: Round rubber legs, color to match body or have some fun with stripes and a different colors.  Take a look at the samples. Please note: I didn’t do a great job with positioning the  knot in the legs.  Look at sample in the video. Rubber legs need some explanation. Use about 6 inches, fold in half, tie a knot near the fold and cinch down tight. Cut the loop near the knot. The doubled up rubber legs will be tied in, and position the knot beyond the end of the hook. After tying in, cut short one leg on each side in front. Don’t forget when completing the fly to add a dab of glue to the knots in the legs.

Posted on July 16th, 2024

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Green Flashy Clouser

by Elaine Cook - fly tying chairman

The clouser fly is designed to go after stripers either our local surf, Delta, O’Neill Forbay. and other waters that hold stripers. This is a style of tying a fly, and there are many different this one has been used successfully in the past at the Forbay and since fish are going for larger fish now this pattern has been increased in size.
HOOK: Mustard 34007 size 1/0 and 2/0.     Crimp bar
THREAD: white strong thread Such as: 3/0 monocord, flat waxed nylon, Dannille 2/0, Ultra thread 140 denier    Attach 1/3 back shank. Lay down thread base halfway to eye. Position thread 1/4 back on shank.
EYES: barbell eyes, either white or red with black pupil  Sizes 1/30 or 1/40 ounce. Attached to top of shank with figure 8 wraps and snug parachute wraps. Apply superglue, or similar. Allow to dry. leave thread hanging in front barbells.
LOWER BODY: chartreuse crystal flash. NOTE: for this and other materials being used, moisten for easy handling.Place center of 14 strands on top of shank where thread hangs. Make two thread wraps, move thread to behind barbells. Fold forward strands backward over top of barbells. Wrap, snuggly and place. advance thread to in front of barbells. Cut length to 2 1/2 inches from front of hookeye.
LOWER BODY CONTINUED: Mega Baitfish Emulator, flash pearl color. Get from Hairline Dubbin Inc.    NOTE: this material comes with ends stitch to a cloth strip. Cut a 5/8 inch piece of cloth strip. Hold material as a bundle, cut off cloth drip. Lay  center of bundle on top of shank and attached the same as crystal flash. advance thread to in front of barbells. cut to length of crystal flash
LOWER BODY CONTINUED: white bucktail.    Use clump about 3/4 the diameter of a wooden matchstick. Even tips by pulling out long tip fibers and stacking them on other fibers. Position tips at rear ends of mega bait fish. Secure in place with several snug thread wraps in front of barbells. Cut butt ends at an angle behind hookeye.. Tie down butt ends and trim any whiskers. Build up a thread nose with many thread wraps. Bring bundle over barbells snuggly tied down, keeping bundle on top of shank. With finish, cut thread, apply zap gap to all thread wraps and deer hair over bar bills. Allowed to dry.
UPPER BODY: Fire Fly peacock color,   Turn hook upside down. Reattached thread behind hook eye. Place center of bundle on top of shank where thread hangs.Make 2 thread wraps. Fold forward fibers backward. With touching thread wraps, tie in place back to barbells, then forward to hookeye. Whip  finish, cut thread. Apply glue to all thread wraps. Trimfibers to length of mega beta fish.

 

 

Posted on June 17th, 2024

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Hemingway caddis

by Elaine Cook - fly tying chairman

This adult caddis is very similar to a Henryville Caddis. The larger sizes can be used pretty much anywhere and particularly in the Rocky Mountains. The very small ones are great in tail waters and spring creeks. Apply floating before fishing. Using a light dun hackle and quill wing make the fly easier to see.
HOOK: TMC 100 SIZES 12 TO 18. (I also tie size 20).    Crimp bar.
THREAD: gray or olive, 6/0 for larger flies, 8/0 for medium, or 10/0  or 14/0 for small. Attached 1/3 back, wrap to rear of shank.
HACKLE: Dun barbs equal to one hook gap.
Remove any fuzz at end of feather. Cut five or six barbs short on each side of butt end of steam (crew cut). Tie in crewcut with dull side feather facing you, tip of feather to rear.


BODY:  gray or olive super fine dubbing: Gray muskrat fur can also be used.
Dub a cigar shaped body up to thread tie in. Palmer hackle forward in about five wraps. tie cut excess.
UNDERWING: Wood duck or mallard flank feather.
Lineup tips of barbs. Using the hook gap as a guide cut that many from the stem. Tie to top of shank with tips, extending hook gap length beyond rear of body.
WING: mallard quill feather or secondary feathers of other birds also work. Apply silicon to feather ahead of time which will help keep the barbs from separating. If they do when fishing, the fish still respond to the fly readily.
Using the hook gap as a guide, use a Bodkin to separate the barbs. Cut section nearest the stem straight across, then fold in half length wise and cut a diagonal notch. ( See diagram). Position butt end on top of body with tips extending hook gap beyond rear of body. Pinch wing in half length wise and tie in place with several wraps. Cut excess and tie down butt ends.
HACKLE: dun hackle. Size, prep, and tie in the same as above.
THORAX: Peacock hurl.
Cut barbs from stem. Approximately four for larger hooks, three for medium, and one or two for small flies. Tie in tips make, dubbing loop. Advance thread to one eye length behind eye. Make chenille with dubbing tool. Close wraps to one eye behind eye. Tie off cut excess. Palmer hackle forward to one eye length behind eye. Tie off cut access. With finish. Apply glue to tie off threads.

Posted on May 29th, 2024

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X-Caddis

by Elaine Cook - fly tying chairman

When you talk about a “go to fly”, this has to be one of them. It’s an emerging caddis pattern, is easy to tie, uses few materials, floats nicely, lands on the water easily, and fish like it very well. NOTE: Directions are written for a size 16 hook. Adjust amount of material for other sizes.
HOOK: TMC 100, SIZES 14–20.    Crimp barb.
THREAD: olive or tan (to match body) 8/0.
Attached behind eye.
Touching wraps to mid shank.
SHUCK: ginger or amber , Micro Zelon,  Sparkle Emerger Yarn, or spooled Antron.
Separate fibers with bodkin.
Moisten fibers for easy handling.
Select about five strands.
Lay on top of shank, tips extending two shank lengths beyond eye.
Tie in place with 3 to 4 wraps.
Fold the forward Zelon to the rear.
Tie place with touching wraps to rear of shank.
Cut Zelon to shank length.
BODY: olive or tan Antron dubbing.
Dub a cigar shaped body forward to one eye length behind eye.
Trim wild hairs.
WING: Deer hair – medium thick fiber, with tips marked.
Cut clump of fibers from hide.
Clean out under fur. Finished clump should equal size of a wooden matchstick.
Hold clump above shank, tips above center of shuck.
Make one wrap around hair only, then three or four around hair and shank. The hairs will flare.
Stroke, butt fibers forward and upward into a bundle out over the eye.
Hold wing hairs in a bundle to the rear on top of the shank.
Make 10 touching thread wraps to the rear making a collar.
Advance thread to behind eye     That’s good honey
Bring forward hair upward and forward into a clump.
Cut hair fibers at an angle so they equal two eyed lengths long. See photo.
Half hitch behind eye 4-5 times.
Cut thread.
Super Glue to  collar and tie off threads.

Posted on April 24th, 2024

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Mallard flank mayfly nymph

by Elaine Cook - flying chairman

The fly tying class this month is an AP nymph. It’s tied in the same manner, but using different materials. This pattern works well for flies sized 12 to 18. The AP nymph is better adapted to the larger hooks like 10 to 14. mayflies come in a variety of colors. More comonly tan, olive, brown and pale  yellow. use same color for thread, mallard, feather, body and thorax.
HOOK: TMC 200 R, sizes 12 to 18.   Crimp barb.
THREAD: color to match body    Attached mid shank, and wrap to rear of shank.
TAIL: Died mallard flank feather.    Stroke barbs so that tips are lined up. Cut approximately 6-10 barbs from stem. Position on top
of shank, tips to rear forming a short tail. (see sample). Attach to top of shank up to 1/3 back from eye. Cut excess.
RIB: Find gold wire.    Attach strand under hook shank back to tail.
BODY: Super fine dubbing. Dub a tapered body up to 1/3 back from eye. Spiral wire forward, 5 wraps. Tie off cut excess.
WING CASE: Died mallard, flank feather.   Prepare the feather in the same manner as above, but select twice the number of barbs.
Position on top of shank with tips to the rear, allowing length to be slightly longer than hook. Tie in place.
THORAX: Same dubbing as body.  A generous, round body. Finishing one eye length behind eye. Bring wing case forward over
thorax and tie down.
LEGS: Divide mallard barbs in half. Tied down one half on far side with tips to the rear, and 1/2 on the near side.
HEAD: Tie a small thread head, and then whip finish. Cut thread.

 

Posted on March 27th, 2024

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Adult damsel

by Elaine, Cook - fly tying chairman

This particular fly works well for trout, bass and bluegill. I believe that having the original instructions to follow will be easier for you than trying to describe the construction the normal way. The measurements will not be to scale, so be sure to use a ruler The diagrams should be very helpful. Hope this works for you. If you have questions, don’t hesitate to call. 831-234-6515. Elaine

PDF version of Instructions:

Posted on March 1st, 2024

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Midnight Cowboy

by Elaine Cook - fly tying instructor

Hook: TMC 5263 or TMC 200R   Sizes 6 (at Pyramid ) -12.   Adjust materials for the smaller flies.

Thread: black 6/0

Tail: Black marabou with fluffy tips ( straight tips can be broken off )

Tail Flash: both red and blue Flashabou

Hackle: Black strung hackle, AKA India hen back.

Body: Speckled midnight fire chenille ( black chenille with short projections of both red and blue flash )

1. Crimp barb.

2. Attach thread behind eye. Wrap to above hook barb, then forward to mid shank.

3. Note: moisten marabou for easy handling.  Cut moderately large clump from stem. If barbs are not at least 2 shank lengths long, tie in at rear of shank. Lay on top of shank, butt ends 2 eye lengths behind eye. Tie in place to top of entire shank. Advance thread 1/4 inch. Shorten length of tail, by pinching  not cutting, to length of hook (some prefer a tail half that length).

4. Holding one strand of both red and blue Flashabou together, moisten for easy handling, cut in half. Tie center of all strands to top of shank with a couple wraps. Holding half on far side of tail and half on near side, tie in place back to rear of shank. Cut to length of tail.

5. Holding tip of hackle, stroke all other barbs against the grain. Tie tip to rear of shank with shiny side facing you. Advance thread to 1-2 eye lengths behind eye.

6. Strip 1/4 ” chenille from center threads. Tie threads to shank. With touching wraps, wrap to rear of shank then forward to tie in. Tie of, cut excess.

7. Spiral (palmar) hackle forward in about 8 wraps, stroking barbs backward with each wrap. Tie off, cut excess.

8. Holding barbs back, wrap thread head. Whip finish. Cut thread. Apply Zap-A-Gap glue or similar.

Posted on January 25th, 2024

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Loop Wing Leach (Dan’s Favorite leach pattern )

by Elaine, Cook – fly tying chairman

A simple fly to tie for trout in primarily still water. I wouldn’t hesitate to use it for largemouth bass or bluegill. Fishing the fly is most successful using a sinking line, a loop knot in your tippet and pulling with a short slow retrieve.

HOOK: TMC 5263 or other 3X long hook.
Crimp barb.
THREAD: 6/0 wine, maroon, rusty brown (or similar). Use black if tying a black leach.
Attached behind eye.
Touching wraps to rear of shank (Covering the shank is very important).
TAIL: marabou (Type without long pointed tips. Usually found at the side of the stem.) Burgundy or wine color. Black for black leech.
Cut a small bundle from the side of the stem.
Tie in butt ends in at rear of shank.
Cut excess short and tie down.
Pinch tips off so tail measures the length of the hook.
BODY: Semi-Seal dubbing. Arizona, Semi-Seal blood leach color  OR Troutman Enterprise, Semi-Seal bloody leach color.
While holding a small ball of fibers, hand stack them and  put aside.
Make a dubbing loop and lock thread together at top of loop.
Advanced thread to one eye length behind eye.
Insert sparse  amounts of  dubbing into loop, close loop, twist forming a chenille.
Wrap chenille forward using touching wraps, stroking fibers backward with each wrap, up to one eye length behind the eye.
Tie off, cut access.
Brush some of the fibers straight up, and some straight down.
Pinch the fly with your thumb and fore finger, then stroke all the fibers to the rear forming a narrow body.

Posted on December 27th, 2023

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Tiger and Zebra Midges

by Elaine, Cook - fly tying Chairman

Midges are the most abundant food for trout. During the winter, it is their main source of food. They come in a great variety of sizes and colors. This pattern simulate the midge pupa stage, therefore is fish subsurface. The bead usually represents the air bubble that brings them to the surface to hatch out. These two particular patterns are very commonly used and are very effective. Their size has nothing to do with the size fish they catch.
HOOK: TMC 2457 or similar scud hook   Sizes 16-22
Crimp barb.
BEAD: silver for zebra midge, gold for tiger midge.     Use size chart online for comparison of hook size to bed size.
Feed bead onto hook, small opening first.
THREAD: black 6/0, 8/0 or 12/0 depending on size of hook.
Attach behind bead. Touching wraps to part way around bend of hook (see picture). Wrap back to bead.
RIB: silver for zebra midge, gold for tiger midge.     Size medium, small, or fine, depending on size of hook.
Place on near side of hook shank, wrap in place back to rear thread wraps. make two thread wraps behind rib.
BODY: thread as above
At this point in going forward, spin bobbin counter clockwise to make thread lie flat. Wrap forward, beginning in front of wire up to bead with touching wraps. Wrap thread backward 3/4 of shank then forward to bead again. Then halfway back, then 1/4 back leaving thread, hanging behind bead.
RIB (continued) spiral wrap forward in about five wraps,  each getting slightly further apart than the last. Tie off with several wraps behind wire and several in front of wire then one behind wire and one in front of wire. Twist wire in awinterhelicopter type motion to cut. Never use good scissors.
FINISH: make multiple thread wraps behind bead and covering tied off wire rib. Whip finish. Cut thread. Apply glue. Coat body with UV resin, or glue, or sally Hansen hard as nails.
 

Posted on October 26th, 2023

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Scintilla Bubble

by Elaine, Cook —flytying Chairman

This fly imitates a midge sending to the surface. The air bubble (bead) is making the ascension possible. Midges hatch throughout the year and most still waters and moving waters. It’s best finished using an indicator. Take this fly, and the October caddis that will be taught at the flytying class to the upper Sacramento and McLeod rivers in late October to mid November.
Hook:    Size 16-24 (TMC, TFS 2487).
Thread:    black 8/0
Bubble:    One petite or extra small, clear glass bead plus 5X tippet.
Tail:     dark rust, stiff bird, hackle
Thorax:    Dark olive, super find dubbing.
Head:      Black thread

1.    Crimp barb.   NOTE: end of shank is above barb
2.    Attach thread 2/5 back on shank with about six wraps. Leave bobbin hanging at rear of wraps.
3.    Slip bead onto tippet and position in the center. Fold backward and hold strands together. Place on hook shank, bead forward of eye, tippet to rear, make several thread wraps. Pull on tippet to move bed into position. Makes several snug thread wraps 1/8 inch to rear.
4.    Bend tippet toward eye and snuggly tie down up to behind bead. Cut excess.
5.    Cut about 12 barbs off stem of hackle keeping tips aligned. Lay on top of shank, tips extending about two hook lengths to rear of shank. Secure to shank behind bed with wraps to mid shank. Pull on barb butts positioning tips so they are hook shank length beyond shank. Attached to shank with touching wraps back to slightly beyond end of hook shank. Cut excess hackle butts behind bed.
6.   Wrap thread forward, forming slender  tapered body up to bead.
7.    Wrap a small thorax, two wraps behind bead, one in front, two around base of bead.
8.    Wrap a small thread head, whip finish, cut thread.

 

 

Posted on September 5th, 2023

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Blue Winged Olive

by Elaine Cook – flytying chairman

This dry fly is an absolute must for the upcoming fishout to Mammoth Lakes. Be sure to use this in the high Sierra streams, Hot Creek,, and the upper Owens. don’t hesitate to use this fly throughout the west and the north east as well. The fish in the Rockies particularly like the larger flies. This thorax fly tying style was developed around 75 years ago by Vince Marinaro for the limestone streams of the Northeast.
HOOK: TMC 10o (standard dry fly) size is 12–18.     The small flies work well in spring creeks and tail waters.
Crimp Barb.
THREAD: Olive 8/0.
Attach thread, mid shank, and leave hanging 1/3 back from eye.
WING: light, gray, turkey flat.
Select a bunch of turkey, flat, barbs, lining up tips and cutting from stem. Measure turkey flat barbs  equal in length to hook shank and tie and on top of shank with Tips extending beyond eye.  Cut bar butts off at an angle. Stand wing upright, making several wraps as a dam to hold barbs vertical. Return thread to cut Barb butts.
TAIL: light dun hackle fibers. (Side feather from chicken neck that has stiffer barbs).
Select 10–12 hackle barbs, line up tips, tie in so tips are one hook shank length beyond the end of the shank. Last wrap under tail  to keep from bending downward. Cut, butts even with cut wing butts.
BODY: Olive, superfine dubbing. ( the natural insect varies in color from olive, to pale olive gray, to yellow olive green, to rusty olive).
Dub a slender body up to mid shank.
HACKLE: light dun neck, or saddle
Select hackle with barbs 1 1/2 hook gap long. Remove any fuzz at butt end, stroke barbs against grain at butt end. Cut several barbs short off each side of butt end. Lay that section on side of shank, tip to rear and tie in place. dub remainder of hook to one eye length behind eye. Spiral hackle forward in three turns behind wing and three turns in front of wing. Tie off cut access. Wrap, a small thread head, whip finish, cut thread, and seal with his cement, if desired.

Posted on April 29th, 2023

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Parachute Ant with Orange Post

by Elaine Cook – fly, tying chairman

There are many ant patterns, most of which are hard to see on the surface of the water. Posting them makes them far easier to see, particularly if post is orange in color. Ant patterns are most effective mid summer on, and are more available to fish on windy days. Add floatant and fish with a drag free presentation. Good in still water as well.

HOOK: TMC 100 – sizes 12 to 16.
Crimp barb.
THREAD:  black 8/0.
Attach mid shank. Make a few wraps toward the rear.
BACK:   Orange spooled Antron.
Using about a 2 inch strand, attach to top of shank back to above barb.
REAR BODY: Black, superfine dubbing — black Sharpie marking pen.
Dub bulbous rear body up to mid shank. Pull Antron forward and tie down.
MID BODY: Antron, and black thread.
With touching wraps, attach Antron to top of shank up to 1/4 back on shank. If tying size 14 or 16 hooks, additional touching thread
wraps back to rear body, then forward again. Using Sharpie pen, darken Antron  over rear body.
POST: continuation of orange Antron.
Holding Antron upright, wrap, touching thread wraps around Antron in 5 to 6 wraps up, then down in 5 to 6 to shank. Make a
couple of wraps in front of post to hold it upright. Trim Antron equal to hook length.
HACKLE: grizzly equal to one and a half to 2 times hook gap.
Prepare hackle by cutting off fuzzy end, then cut about six barbs short on each side at bottom of stem. Place shiny side against shank, tip to rear, and cut barbs at base of post. Tie in place in front and behind post. Hold hackle upright, post upward with 4 to 5 wraps then back down again.
FORE-BODY: Black, super fine dubbing.
Dub a small fore-body from eye back to the middle of the mid body.
HACKLE  continued.
Reposition thread by wrapping around base of post. Start behind post and let thread hang in front of post on your side. Using
hackle pliers, wrap hackle around base of post about 3-4 times and leave hanging down from shank on your side. Bring the thread up in-front of hackle, parallel to table, and wrap around post through hackle 3 to 4 times. Half hitch 3 to 4 times behind eye. Cut thread. Cut excess hackle. Cut Antron so it is hook  shank length above shank. Push up on hackle barbs from beneath to be sure they are parallel to the table. Cut any that hang below.

 

 

Posted on March 9th, 2023

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Renegade fly

by Elaine Cook – – fly tying Sherman

This dry fly pattern has been around for decades. It is an effective attractor, easy to tie, easy to see.
1. HOOK: TMC 100 (or any standard dry fly hook).  Size 10-18
Crimp barb.
2. THREAD: Black 6/0, or 8/0 depending on size of hook.
Attach thread, 3/4 back on shank.
3. TAG: small or find flat gold tinsel.
Tie  in back to above barb with silver side facing you. Hand wrap tinsel around 1/3 of curve of hook and back to starting point.
NOTE: that will expose gold side of tinsel. Tie off cut access.
4.  REAR HACKLE: brown or grizzly    Barbs equal to 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 times hook gap. Remove any fuzz at base of stem. Cut 4 to 5 barbs short on each side of stem (crew cut). Tie crew cut in with feather tip to the rear and light side of feather facing you. Advance thread 1/4 back on shank. Wrap feather  forward to thread with close wraps and tie off. Cut excess.
5. BODY: peacock herl.
Using 2 to 4 strands, break off fragile tips. Tie in tips. Reinforce hurl with thread loop and dubbing tool. Advance thread to 1/4 back on shank. Twist thread loop forming a chenille. Wrap chenille forward forming a generous body. Tie off cut access.
6. FORWARD HACKLE: white or cream grizzly   Barbs equal two 1 1/2 to 2 times hook gap.
Prepare feather the same as above. Move thread to one by length behind eye. Wrap feather forward with close wraps. Tie off, cut excess. Wrap small thread head. Tie off, cut thread. Apply superglue, if using a large hook.

Posted on April 21st, 2023

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Vernille Caddis

by Elaine Cook - fly tying chairman

This is one of my “go to flies”. A caddis hatch does not need to be occurring for trout to gobble it up. The larger size works  well in the Rocky Mountains, smaller in the Sierras. Fish with a floating line, and drag free drift in moving water.
HOOK: TMC 2487, sizes 14–16.
Crip barb.
THREAD:  olive or dun olive.        size 8/0 for 14 hooks, 10 or 12/0 for size 16
Attach 2 eye lengths behind eye.
Touching wraps to above barb.
BODY:  Olive:  vernille, ultra chenille, or velvet chenille in size small or fine. Super glue or the like.
Using a candle, carefully melt end of strand by placing it near the base of flam to round the end. It takes very little exposure to the
heat.
Apply super glue using bodkin to thread wraps.
Place on top of shank, melted end above rear of hook.
One wrap to secure.
Spiral wraps to mid shank.
Cut excess.
Tie down stub.
UNDER-WING: dun spooled Antron
Position thread in front of body.
Cut to even fibers.
Lay on top of body with tip slightly beyond end of body.
Tie in place.
Cut excess.
Tie down butt ends up to eye.
Splay fibers.
HACKLE: medium dun
Select feather with barbs equal to hook gap.
Prep butt end: cut off fuzz, stroke barbs against grain, cut 5 to 6 barbs short on each side of stem “crewcut”.
Position:
Tip to rear.
Dark side facing you
Butt end behind eye.
Tie in place back to body.
WING:  light deer hair with fine fibers
Cut fibers from hide so that bundle is width of a matchstick or slightly less.
Clean out underfur stack tips.
Position on top of shank, tips extend into ends of underwing.
Tie in place, first thread wrap around hair only, then several snugly around  fibers and shank., to splay fibers.
Touching wraps up to eye.
Stroke butt hairs into bundle over eye at 45° angle upward.
Make two wraps around base of bundle.
HACKLE  (cont.).
Make 3 to 5 Hackle wraps forward.
Tie off, cut access.
Half-hitch behind eye and under hair fibers.
Cut thread.
Cut head on an angle. “See photo”.
Apply glue to final thread wraps, using bodkin.
Cut short, any stray fibers.

Posted on March 19th, 2023

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Klinkhamer ( modified )

by Elaine Cook – fly tying Sherman

This caddis is imitation represents the insect emerging from the water to become an adult. Its body hangs below the water surface, the thorax and lower hackle barbs in the surface film and the wing upright out of the water. Apply saliva to the body, floatant to remainder of the fly. I have modified this pattern to make it easier to tie smaller sizes, and not quite so complicated. If you wish to see the original version, check on YouTube.
HOOK: TMC 2487 or 200 R ,(original Partridge GRS 15 ST, which is hard to find ). Sizes 8-18. Crimp barb.
THREAD: 8/0 color to match body (grey, tan, or black).
Attached thread one eye length behind eye. Spiral wrap to rear of hook and partway around bend. Spiral wrap back up to two eye
lengths behind eye. Reposition hook in vice with tip upright.
WING (POST ): White, yellow, or orange spooled Antron
Stack two 1 inch long pieces of Antron. Position center on top of shank. Made two thread wraps. Hold all fibers upright. Make several wraps
around base,working up about 1/8 inch. then back to shank. This is called “posting “. Cut wing equal to hook gap.
HACKLE: dun, brown or chestnut , or black (depending on thread color )
Select hackle with barbs equal to 1 1/2 to 2 hook gaps. Prepare but end by cutting off fuzz , cut 6 to 8 barbs short on both sides of stem. This
is called a “crew cut”. Tie crew cut in at base of wing and post up about 1/8 inch. Dull side should face wing.
BODY: Gray, tan or brown, or black Super fine dubbing.
Dub a thin layer back to rear thread wraps. Then a thin tapered body up to wing.
THORAX: peacock hurl.
Select one or two strands depending on size of hook. Break off fragile tips. Tied in tips add base of wing. Make chenille out of hurl .
Position thread in front of post. Wrap chenille around base of post to make a thorax. Tie off, cut access.
HACKLE ( cont.).
Re-position thread in clockwise direction around base of wing and leave hanging on your side of hook. Wrap hackle around wing 3 to 4 times,
each wrap closer to thorax. Hold hackle tip down on your side, bring thread up parallel to table at shank level, make three clockwise
thread wraps around wing between barbs and thorax. Advance thread to eye. Wrap small head with half hitches. Tie off with half hitches,
cut thread, cut excess hackle feather. Trim any barbs that hang below shank.

Posted on February 24th, 2023

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Henryville Special

by Elaine Cook - fly tying chairman

This adult Caddis pattern is designed for moving water but also works in stillwater for trout. Apply floatant and allow a drag free drift.
HOOK: TMC 100 size 12-20.
Crimp barb.
THREAD: Olive 8/0.
Apply 1/3 back on shank. Wrap to rear of shank.
RIB: grizzly Hackle, barbs equal to hook gap.
Cut off fuzzy end. Stroke barbs so that they stand out sideways. Cut 5 to 6 short on each side of the stem forming a “crew cut”.
Tie in “crew cut “ to rear of shank with dull side toward you and tip to the rear.
BODY: light olive super fine dubbing
Dub a cigar shaped body 2/3 forward on shank. Palmer grizzly forward in about four wraps. Tie off, cut excess. Cut off tops of
barbs at an angle leaving shorter stubs at head end.
UNDERWING: Lemon wood duck or mallard flank feather (well barred)
Even up tips of barbs and cut out 6–8. Tie in on top of shank, in front of body, with tips extending hook gap length beyond body.
Cut butt ends, tie down.
OVERWING: mallard wing quill. Light or medium gray. Seagull feathers also work. Some caddis are tan with modeled wings. So a    variety of birds can work. Do not use primary feathers. Select a soft feather with narrow barbs. Look for sections of feather that will form a nice taper (not to pointed or blunt) when one section is removed. See picture.
Prepare quill by spraying with clear, fast drying lacquer and allow to dry. Most authorities will recommend using two feathers, one from each side of the bird to have mirror image curves. If using flat quills, that isn’t necessary. Using a bodkin, separate two segments that are about hook gap wide at the stem end. Cut near stem. If tips are too pointed, trim to shape. Place one segment on each side with bottom edge of wing at shank level.  Tips  extending almost to end of underwing, and tips down. Use pinch method twice to tie in place
in front of body. Cut but ends, tie down. NOTE: The quail barbs will separate as you fish the fly. This will only make it more attractive to the fish.
HACKLE: Brown, barbs one and a half hook gap.
Prepare the same as grizzly hackle. Tie “crew cut”  to top of shank in front of wing with shiny side toward you and tip to the rear.
Wrap hackle forward, forcing thread as you go, with about 4 touching wraps up to one eye length behind eye.Tie off, cut excess.
Apply a small amount of glue to head.

Posted on February 24th, 2023